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I've been coming to this
church fairly regularly for about ten
years now. Most recently, I came cycling
up the long hill along the edge of the
woods from Rushbrooke, pedalling hard to
beat the impending rain. I got to
Bradfield St George to discover that I
had left my camera at Rushbrooke, and had
to go back for it. But the rain held off
anyway. Lost in the lonely hills to
the south east of Bury, the church is a
noble prospect, a hill top tower raising
its head to heaven. It is said that you
can see 16 other towers from the top of
it. You certainly get a fine view of this
one from the busy Bury to Sudbury road,
but three miles later you find yourself
very much in the outback. A field in this
parish had the medieval name Hellesdun,
and is one of the sites suggested as that
of the martyrdom of St Edmund, which
happened at a place of that name. To be
honest, Hoxne still seems more
likely, but there is also a Sutton here,
the name of the place where the body was
taken, and Hoxne has never satisfactorily
come up with one of those.
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As is so often the
case with a church you've seen from miles off,
the tower disappears as you get nearby. There is
now a sign at the entrance to the narrow lane
leading up to it, but on more than one occasion
in the past I have cycled straight past. The
track leads up between two gardens, and when you
get there, it isn't a huge building at all, but
quite homely, like its neighbour Little Whelnetham. That 15th century tower
is impressive though, lifting to heaven.
Unusually, it has a large dedicatory inscription at ground level, picked
out in black flint in the stonework on the two
westerly buttresses. Her begynnyth John Bacon
owthe of the fundacyon Jhu pserve him It
seems to say, John Bacon being the donor in
question.
The graveyard here
is a wildlife sanctuary, with open fields beyond.
A light clerestory came with the north aisle,
but Mortlock thought the rest of the
building much earlier, probably Norman. In any
case, there is a great sense of continuity,
although perhaps the late medieval glory of the
Perpendicular rules over all. I stepped through
the doorway into the familiar, bright interior,
the high windows flooding the nave with light.
This is a very well done 19th century interior,
but not without the memory of the more distant
past.
Two benches in the
north aisle reveal it. One bench end, which I
think is actually a 19th century replacement,
appears to be a flying dog, but is almost
certainly the flying lion evangelistic symbol of
St Mark. The other is old, probably 15th century.
It is a poopyhead which has a face in it with a
protruding tongue. It might be a green man, but
it might more likely be the figure of Scandal,
found in exactly the same way across the county
at Blythburgh.
Also in the north
aisle is a splendid funeral bier. We tend to
think of these as ancient as well, but of course
they are mainly 19th and 20th century. Many were
in use well into living memory. A few in Suffolk
still are. This one has a plaque on it which
reveals that it was paid for by the
Entertainments Committee in 1924.
A 20th century
carved image of St George stands in a medieval
niche flanking the chancel arch, and the glorious
reredos is the best of its kind in
the county. St George must have been a very high
Anglo-catholic church in its day, and the
reredos, with its depictions of the Adoration of
the Shepherds and the Magi, and the figures of St
George and St Felix flanking the piece, is a
relic of those days. Above is the excellent east
window, the work of Edward Prynne in 1913, one of
the last shouts of the triumphant pre-WWI Church
of England.
I
always leaf through the visitors' book when I
visit a church, and so it was that a number of
years ago I noticed that this church has a
regular visitor who signs the book and makes a
comment on the occasion of every visit, sometimes
several times a week. Some double page spreads
consist of nothing but the record of their
visits. I was pleased to find on my most recent
visit that this tradition has been kept up, even
to the extent of them wishing A Happy Easter
to their regular readers. A contact of mine
observed recently that this was typically 'Normal
for Suffolk' - so it is, and long may it remain
so.
| I stepped
outside again into the busy late spring
of deepest rural Suffolk.. This was the
parish that Adrian Bell wrote about as
Benfield St George in his masterpiece Corduroy,
the single best evocation of Suffolk
rural life this century. I had thought of
him a few weeks before, cycling this way,
and seeing the deep cut fields leading
the eye to the horizon, like the corduroy
of his imagination. Now, in April, the
furrows were a deep green. Not far from here
is Bradfield Wood, an ancient woodland
superbly maintained by the Suffolk Trust
for Nature Conservation. There is a
silence there that you find rarely these
days in the southern half of England, so
close are we so often to major roads. In
this area, that unnoticed background
noise falls away, birdsong and windrush
rises imperceptibly, and here in
Bradfield there is a sense of things
beyond the present, beyond the material.
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