Carlton

St Peter, Carlton

I will tell you straight from the start that I found this church locked without a keyholder. But its situation is so beautiful, or was the day I visited, that I found this easier to bear than usual. Also, I had come to the end of a splendid ride on a sunny day down from the Norfolk border, paying homage to the Wenhaston doom and touching the coast at Dunwich. This was the first locked church I'd found. So I shall be merciful.

If you want an authentic experience of St Peter, you should approach the church along the ancient track from Carlton Road.

There is no village of Carlton any more; it is part of the ribbon development of Saxmundham, and has retained its identity less well than neighbouring Kelsale, with which it is now incorporated as the parish of Kelsale-cum-Carlton.

Anyway, this track is quite unsuitable for cars, so you'll need to walk or cycle past the field that was being harvested on this glorious late-summer day.

The track continues across the field, all burnt gold and freshly-stubbled; and there, ahead, in a lush, green oasis, is the gorgeous red-brick tower of St Peter.

A little red-brick post tower. Note the niches in the west wall.

The tower is 16th century, clearly pre-Reformation, as it has niches in the western wall of the tower. It really is delightful, if not typically Suffolk in proportion. The battlements struck me as modern. There is a mason's mark on a stone at the base, presumably dating from the 19th century restoration.

Mortlock suggests that the 14th century chancel was added as a chantry for the souls of the Hainault family, although that is more than I know.

The writer's bike, beside a rather pretty (but locked) porch gate.

This is one of those churchyards which seem to absorb all sound, and even the combine harvester grew distant. I'm unclear if this church is used for services anymore; its dedication seems to have been adopted by Kelsale church. It is certainly used for burials, and there were fresh graves.

The porch is rather curious, with its opening obviating the need for a southern wall and arch. The gate, with its pickets and surmounting grille, is rather pretty, but very locked. Some desperate soul or angst-ridden vandal had scrawled the word 'help' on it - but no help would be forthcoming here, I fear.

I was disappointed not to see the brass inside, with what Mortlock calls 'a huge rosary'; but to spend half an hour or so pottering about in the graveyard was a little recompense.

When you leave, carry on along the path. You will quickly realise that the isolation of this church is an illusion. Beyond the graveyard, and over a stile, are playing fields and a school, and an estate of smart houses; ten minutes walk from the church will find you standing in the middle of Saxmundham, which has reached out to embrace it.

St Peter, Carlton, is located in the northern suburbs of the town of Saxmundham. The ancient approach road heads south from the former village of Carlton, although you can also walk to it from Saxmundham town centre. It is locked, with little apparent chance of a keyholder.