Great Wratting

St Mary, Great Wratting

When I first arrived at this church, early one Summer Sunday afternoon, I wasn't even sure where I was. When I'm cycling, I use Ordnance Survey maps, one of the world's greatest inventions. Their gorgeous colours, clever symbols and fascinating information make them essential for any explorer of the English countryside; and, if there's anyone from OS reading this, then of course I'd be happy to receive free samples. But on this occasion, we were in the car, having visited Withersfield, and now trying to find our way to Kedington. I can't resist an unvisited church. The Clare road forms the county boundary with Essex, so I knew we were still in Suffolk.

There was no sign at the gate, so I climbed the hill to the little church. I had Pevsner with me, but no Mortlock; in any case, it wasn't much use without a name.

Victorian elegance on a hill - but where on earth is it?

The tower was bold and moody, with those flush buttresses to the east that create an impression of sheerness, softened here by the bell window and high roofline. The 19th century bell windows were Decorated, but probably were originally, too. All the other windows were Victorian too; but well done, particularly the excellent set of three lancets in the east end.

From the south. Victorian windows and door, patched up tower, but all very tasteful somehow.

Despite the time, there was a service still in progress. It was a gloriously sunny day, so I walked around the church, taking the photographs you see here, and then stood outside the north porch. A grand triumphal hymn was being sung.

I'm not completely familiar with the liturgy of the Church of England, but it sounded like the sort of hymn that might be sung at the end of a service, so I decided to wait.

There also seemed to be a lot of voices singing it, which surprised me; in my experience, churches like this have small congregations now.

The hymn ended, a muffled prayer, and then an organ voluntary. I waited for the people to emerge, so that I could nip in and have a look around before anyone tried to lock up.

The door opened, and the Anglican Diocesan Bishop of St Edmundsbury and Ipswich emerged. He was dressed in his full regalia, with mitre, crook and eucharistic cope.

He gave me a grave nod as he passed, and was followed by as large a congregation as this little church has seen in many a year, I'll be bound.

Villagers who normally turn up only for Christmas and Harvest Festival can't resist a bishop. This was clearly a big day for them all. While the photographs were being taken outside, I slipped in. I'd guessed this was one of the Wratting churches.

But which one? The banner propped up by the altar should have told me. But, no. 'Great and Little Wratting', it says. A combined parish; not very helpful, that. However, the insurance document pinned up by the north door told me everything I needed to know.

Pevsner isn't great on churches like this. One imagines him sticking his head round the door, and then zooming off to write up Kedington, before a slap-up tea at the Angel Hotel, Clare.

But he noticed the most unusual feature of the church, the two corbel heads either side of the nave. They supported the rood beam, in years gone by. The modern oak screen, with its nice coving, is set eastwards of them.

Despite the rigorous Victorian makeover, in which the roofs and furnishings were also replaced, there is still plenty of surviving evidence of the building's former liturgical life.

A dull photo? Perhaps. But here, in one shot, we see the alcove which housed the roodloft stairs, an arched piscina below it to the right, the corbel that supported the rood beam on the window jamb, the fine modern screen - phew!

Three sedilia seats, now backed in wood. A piscina and confusing banner are beyond them.

As well as the rood beam corbel heads, the curve of the former roodloft stairs is discernable as an alcove behind the pulpit. One has to imagine an entrance and an exit, and the stairs turning between them.

Below this to the west is a fine piscina to a former altar, and, further east, a fine set of three sedilia, seats for priest, deacon and acolyte. Another piscina is above them. Dating from the 13th century, they are all in suspiciously good condition, so may have been recut.

I stepped out into the sultry heat. By now, the churchyard had emptied, the bishop no doubt hustled off to be plied with sherry at the local rectory.

An occasion like my visit here, of course, is a reminder to us all of the central importance of the C of E to the everyday life of a typical English village.

St Mary, Great Wratting, is to be found on the B1061 Haverhill to Newmarket road, just north of Haverhill. I've no idea at all if it is usually open, but it was when I got there.