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Icklingham is home to one of the
loveliest churches in Suffolk. Unfortunately, it isn't
this one, although St James would look rather better
without the inevitable comparison. The Churches
Conservation Trust now cares for beautiful All Saints at the other end of the village, and Parish
life now revolves around this smaller, heavily
Victorianised church, which stands beside the massive
flour mills. 
The stark
Victorianisation of St James. But there's a medieval
church in there somewhere.
| Icklingham is named for
Boudicca's Iceni tribe, and was later probably
the largest settlement in the most densely
populated part of Saxon England. This may explain
why it retained two parishes, and it is still a
busy little place today, stretching along the
hectic Bury to Mildenhall road. Like many Suffolk churches, St James was
very neglected in the 18th century, and the tower
collapsed. This was rebuilt quite early on in the
19th century, according to Mortlock. It was certainly in place by the time
the church was sketched in the 1820s.
Seeing the building from the
outside, you might think the rest of it entirely
the work of the 1860s; in fact, the nave and chancel were refaced in flint and reroofed, as
at Campsea
Ash, and still retain
much of their 13th and 14th century substance.
Inside, the Victorian hand is
felt, but the medieval deus ex machina
is still apparent; witness the roodloft stairs,
the image niche beside the chancel arch, a
piscina, and an aumbry retaining its door in the
north aisle.
Suffolk has many grand 19th
century sanctuaries, full of Tractarian
confidence. This is not really one of the best,
however. The reredos is rather lovely, but lost
in this desert of characterless Minton tiling.
Also fascinating, for different
reasons, are the hassocks, large 19th century
kneelers made out of sedge, which are piled up
behind the font. There are more at nearby Eriswell and Lakenheath.
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Inside
the Victorian shell, aisles and clerestory speak
of a medieval Catholic past.
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Sedge
hassocks hiding behind the font. A curiosity
really, from an age of rural piety almost two
centuries away. (Photo by Alan Thurkettle.)
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Technically speaking, they
shouldn't be here. After its redundancy, they
were removed from the other church in the
village, All Saints, as
was the spectacular 16th century Parish chest,
which Mortlock thinks the best in England. Did the parish choose the wrong church?
The overwhelmingly old-fashioned interior might
have seemed the very thing in the 1970s, but it
is hard to see how it will be easy to adapt it to
the changing liturgical needs of the 21st
century.
The wide open spaces up the
road might have been more appropriate. But this
is a small parish, and All Saints required such a lot of repair work that
redundancy was really the only option.
We are entering a time when the
Church of England's stewardship of this country's
medieval heritage will seem an absurd thing, an
anachronism. This village may well be used as an
example.
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The
elaborate iron-worked chest. (Photo by Alan Thurkettle.)

St
James, Icklingham, is to be found at the eastern end of
this village on the A1101 Bury to Mildenhall road. I
found it locked, with a nearby keyholder listed.
Several of
the photos on this entry are by Alan Thurkettle, and
retain his copyright.
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