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I've always had a soft spot
for this church, ever since I first
visited it on a fierce November afternoon
and took shelter from a storm here.
Coming back in the stillness of early
summer the following year with a camera,
I actually spent most of the time just
sitting quietly and thinking. It was a
delight to come back seven years on and
step into that stillness again. This
church strikes me as a perfect example of
a rural Suffolk medieval parish church,
with a sense of its past, a seemliness
about its present, and a feeling that it
is suitable, for now at least, for the
liturgies of the Established Church. It
is the Elizabethan Settlement made solid
and brought up to date by successive
generations, for whom it now acts a
touchstone.
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Until a few
decades ago, the situation of this church was a
remote one, out in the fields, with a couple of
ancient cottages for company. Arthur Mee
describes walking out to it in the 1930s, but now
it is difficult to spot unless you know where it
is, for modern housing lines the lane from the
road, and St Andrew has joined its straggling
village. But for all that, you still enter the
churchyard through the narrow lane between the
two cottages, and to do so is to step back in
time.
This is a
thoroughly welcoming church, that I've never
found locked. There is a fourteenth century
tower, and a lovely mixture of windows. On the
north side there's a clerestory but nothing else. The
south side retains other windows. An external
piscina shows the site of a transeptal chapel, now vanished.
Inside, this is one of the many quiet, tidy
churches of central Suffolk; not terribly
exciting, perhaps, but with a great sense of
continuity, and of being at the heart of a faith
community.
In the chancel, a
15th century bench end depicts a tower (often a
symbol of Heaven in medieval days). On closer
inspection, you can see a face peeping out of a
window near the top. I wondered if this is
related to the carving at nearby Tannington, which shows a woman directing a
man (or possibly a child) into a tower? Almost
certainly, it represents 'visiting the prisoner',
one of the works of mercy. Another mutilated
carving shows a man riding on the back of a lion,
which is rather jolly. A finely carved monk has
lost his head, and whatever it was he was
holding. Another figure is a wodewose, an East
Anglian wild man.
Again,
I found myself sitting and thinking, taking it
all in. There is so much here that pleases the
eye and lifts the heart - even the decalogue
boards, which most of us find uncomfortable to
dwell upon too deeply, are a beautiful pair from
the late 17th century. Best of all is the angel
on the font who gazes solemnly up the nave.
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nave, there is a copy of Murillo's The
Two Trinities; a week later, I saw a
small print of this on the wall at Ipswich St Thomas - I wonder if they
know that there is a more splendid
version near at hand? A modern carved
Madonna and child greets the visitor in
the north west corner. Kettleburgh isn't a
church that many people visit. But if you
fancy a pleasant afternoon cycling around
quiet narrow lanes, taking in a few
interesting and welcoming churches, you
could do a lot worse than come here.
Nearby are Brandeston, Monewden, Cretingham, Hoo and Charsfield. And back to
Ipswich in time for tea.
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