e-mail: simon@suffolkchurches.co.uk

 

Chapel of St James, Lindsey.

  Lindsey is one of my favourite Suffolk villages, and its parish church of St Peter one of my favourite churches. It is also home to two excellent pubs, the White Rose to the south of the village and the Red Rose to the north. I like the Red Rose best of all.

St James' chapel is not far from the White Rose, on the road to Kersey. There was probably an inn on the same crossroads site when this chapel was in its heyday as a chantry to nearby Lindsey Castle. All that survives of the castle today is the traces of the motte and bailey earthworks, but this chapel survived the Reformation to become a barn, a use to which it was put for nearly 400 years.

 
  In 1930, the owner gave it to the nation, and it is now in the care of English Heritage, who, remarkably, do not charge an entrance fee.

The chapel is hidden from the road by trees and hedges, although a view may be obtained across the garden of the adjacent cottage. You approach along a lane between high fences, and enter through the south door. Inside, you find a bare, rectangular space, with an earth floor.

Much has been patched up over the years, but the lancet windows and piscina in the south wall show it to be original, probably mid-13th century.

An ivy-covered cross was fixed to the east wall on the day I visited, the Saturday before Easter. The grill in the west door reminded me of the one at Badley. Corbels support the crossbeam of the roof; worn as they are, it doesn't take much imagination to make out faces on them.

Once, so many churches must have been like this. The additions of chancel, tower and porches would convert it into the more familar shape of a parish church.

On a summer's day it is a glorious walk from here to St Peter, passing the donkeys on the corner, and buying duck eggs at the little stall. And after St Peter, it is a short walk on to the Red Rose, or back here to the White Rose to pick up your car. Everyone's life should be open to such simple pleasures.

   
 

The chapel of St James, Lindsey, is about a mile east of the A1141 Hadleigh to Lavenham road, just north of Kersey. Opening hours are posted at the entrance - basically, 9am to 6pm daily.

Sadly, since this entry was written, the White Rose has closed.