Ringsfield

All Saints, Ringsfield

Ringsfield is a rather suburban village between Halesworth and Beccles, all bungalows and 'modern family homes'. But the churchyard is a delight. I came here shortly after Easter 2000; Easter was late, and the whole churchyard was ablaze with yellow celandines and pink and white blossom.

In high Summer, this church must simply disappear...

The church appears sunken within the graveyard, perhaps as a result of the importation of earth over the centuries to enable further burials. One has the impression of walking between green and yellow banks to reach the south door on the far side.

Allons, les enfants du patrie - now, there's something you don't see everyday.

Before doing so, however, you cannot fail to notice the gloriously camp angel and cross in the angle between north transept and north wall, for all the world like a French war memorial.

This is not so far from the truth, for here is the grave of Princess Caroline, great-niece of Napoleon Bonaparte. Apparently, she had married the local squire.Slightly surreal, perhaps, but it adds its note to a setting of great character.

The church was completely rebuilt by William Butterfield in 1884. He was also responsible for nearby Redisham and Ellough, but they were mere tinkering abouts, compared with this. He rethatched it, and the tower was saved, a 15th century job surmounted by corner turrets which Butterfield must have brought in his suitcase from some inner-London Anglo-catholic shrine.

On the south side, you'll also find a most unusual outdoor brass- and that's something you don't see everyday, either.

I was pleased to discover that the church listed no less than three keyholders. Unfortunately, they were all out. The son of one of them very kindly rang around everyone in the village that he thought might have a key, but none was to be found. There's probably a metaphor there, somewhere.

And so, I shall have to go back. But I'm glad I saw it when I did. After visiting, I read Mortlock's entry for Ringsfield, and discovered that he had also visited in Spring, and delighted in it. We both recommend it wholeheartedly.