The austere tower, but welcoming porch, of St Mary Magdalene, Thornham Magna

This is the Henniker church. If you walk westwards of the tower, you will see Thornham Hall over the fence, across a field. You will also find yourself standing among the Henniker graves, which are as understated and restrained as the Hall itself.

The 14th century tower is rather forbidding, not least because of the flat effect of the east wall caused by the buttresses being flush with it. Something similar exists at Rendlesham.

The porch is very elaborate, with its three alcoves. These, presumably, would have contained Peter, Paul and Mary before the Anglican reformers removed them in the 16th century. The porch doesn't predate the Reformation by much - and notice the way it abuts the window! Sometimes, these 15th century architects weren't all they're cracked up to be.

On entering the church, you will notice that the present Lady Henniker is listed among the churchwardens. This church has none of the treasures of Thornham Parva, but it is a delight nonetheless. The Hennikers have their memorials here, and what a contrast they are to the triumphalism of the Tollemaches at Helmingham or the Poleys at Boxted.

Another of the memorials on this wall is by William Woodington, who, Mortlock tells us, was responsible for the bronze reliefs around the base of Nelson's Column.

Even more striking in the nave are the seven hatchments, an unusually large number even for Suffolk, which, Cameron Newham informs me, has more than any other county apart from Kent. If I was more interested in hatchments myself, I would have taken a photograph of them.

The gloved hand of lukewarm ritualism fell heavily here in the 19th century, and so we must pick our way carefully if we are to find anything medieval. The hammerbeam roof just about qualifies (that in the chancel is 19th century) and there is a gorgeous piscina south of the sanctuary.

Also in the sanctuary is the Henniker's one attempt at full-blown triumphalism, the memorial to John Henniker Major. Hope rests against her anchor, looking rather blowsy, actually. When I was there last, it was obscured by a Christmas tree.

St Mary Magdalene is a shining example of hospitality and openness to all others. The doors are wedged open in an act of trust; there is a plethora of postcards and guidebooks available on various aspects of church and village. There is even a sign welcoming visitors, and wishing them a safe journey home.

These people obviously have riches in heaven, but who could resist making a generous contribution to their funds?

This is a lovely village, with this church, and its beautiful little sister at Thornham Parva. There are the walks opened up by the Hennikers on the Thornham estate, and one of Suffolk's best pubs at the Four Horseshoes. In good weather, this is all a day out in itself.

The Burne-Jones window, for Edward Henniker.

The tower from among the Henniker graves.Rather forbidding from this side, too.