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Great
Thurlow is a largish sleepy village to the north
of Haverhill. As is
usual around here, it is a very pleasant place,
as if these rural parishes had sucked all the
richness out of Haverhill, leaving it
impoverished while they grow fat as butter. The
church sits just to the east of the top road,
among the biggest houses, and appeared to have
been infected with their obsession with privacy,
leaving visitors locked out. The porch was in
pretty poor condition inside, the noticeboard
hanging off and litter and dirt scattered around.
The building had an air of having been abandoned,
but there was a fairly new laminated notice which
announced, somewhat pompously, that members
of the Parochial Church Council for All Saints
agree and operate a 'Locked Church' arrangement
to protect its interior. I had to
admire the way that the use of capitalisation and
inverted commas implied that 'Locked Church'
arrangements were an option discussed and agreed
upon by parishes the length and breadth of
England, but fortunately this is not so, and I
had never come across quite such a notice before.
It didn't even apologise for the church being
locked. And in any case, as the insurance
companies remind us again and again, locking your
church is no way to protect it. Churches which
are kept locked all the time are more likely to
be vandalised, more likely to be broken into and
are even more likely to have something stolen
from them than churches which are open every day.
There
is no possible excuse for it. Here, the
neighbours would be effective guardians, there
are no great or famous treasures, and it would be
impossible to back your transit van up to the
porch to remove the pitch pine furniture even if
you wanted to. The only conclusion is that they
don't really want people going inside, although
at least they'd bothered with a notice, unlike at
Little
Wratting up the road.There were five
telephone numbers you could ring if you wanted to
discuss the possibility of access to the
church by arrangement, but the day was
getting on, the weather was cold, the telephone
signal was poor, and, in all honesty, I really
couldn't be bothered with all the fuss and
suspicion by now. Far better to head on to more
welcoming pastures. Here in East Anglia a good
70% of churches are open every day, virtually all
the others have a notice with the location of a
nearby key, and, although the area to the north
of Haverhill is an enthusiastic locking area, the
churches over the border in Cambridgeshire and
Essex near to here are mostly open.
As at Great
Wratting nearby, almost
everything you see on the outside is
Victorian, including a mock 14th century
tower which is done rather well. Some of
the starkness is softened by a jaunty
little vestry and chimney in the
north-east corner. Inside, I understand
there is a square Norman font, several
brasses (they do seem to have been
popular in this neck of the woods, or
perhaps it is just that the 18th century
antiquity collectors didn't make it this
far) and a scattering of medieval
heraldic glass, but pretty much
everything else is 19th century or later.
Although obviously I am unable to confirm
any of this myself. The graveyard is some
recompense, being largely unspoilt by
clearances. Mortlock
directs our attention to the 18th century
gravestones to the west of the church,
particularly that of Mary Traven. A
charming little medallion shows a woman
in childbirth, and the midwife trying to
block out the skeleton of death by
closing the curtains. Quite what was the
theology of that, I wondered.
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