Wyverstone

St George, Wyverstone

If neighbouring Bacton is firmly in the valley of banal civilisation, then Wyverstone is very much in the foothills of a vanishing rural idyll. To cycle to it through late summer fields that swell on either side of the lane is like coming up for air.

And Wyverstone is a delightful village, and one of its delights is St George, a quirky little church, with none other in Suffolk quite like it. The setting is lovely; whoever it is that lives in the cottage to the south is very lucky indeed.

A big chunky tower, and a quirky clerestory - actually, it's quite small. (Photo by Alan Thurkettle).

The 14th century tower has a wide eastern face, and the high clerestory lifts against it. However, there are no aisles, and so the main impression we get is one of height. This is a tall, thin church. The wooden porch and gargoyles make it atmospheric, thoroughly gothic.

You step inside to light; not surprisingly, given all the windows. There is not one but two coats of royal arms, and the fine medieval roof is a distinctive one. There is a pulley block in it that was probably for the rowell light.

The star attraction here is the 16th century roodscreen. At first sight, it is a bit battered, and everything above the dado has been destroyed. But this is the only rood screen in situ in Suffolk where the figures are carved in relief. And what a fascinating sequence they are!

On the north side are the Annunciation to the Blessed Virgin, and what was probably the Nativity of Our Lord, although this last panel has been particularly vandalised by Anglican or Puritan vandals in the 16th or 17th century.

On the south side, the southern panel is a gorgeous Visitation, with Mary and Elizabeth both voluptuously pregnant.

These three scenes were part of the medieval rosary sequence - as, indeed, they are today.

The fourth panel, the left hand one on the south side, is probably the most interesting of all, since it portrays the medieval legend of the Mass of St Gregory, which was used as a comfort to those who found their faith in the Eucharist shaken.

The St Gregory Mass, and the Visitation of Mary to her cousin Elizabeth. (Photo by Alan Thurkettle).

Finally, don't miss the splendid 1920s east window of the Ascension surrounded by angels. Some have called it dour, others garish. I thought it boldly sentimental, and quite late for such confidence; it tugs against the strings of cultivated uncertainty that the Church of England restrains itself with today.

Finally, don't be tempted to head back to Bacton and civilisation, but in the other direction for Westhorpe, and wonder.

The Ascension. (Photo by Alan Thurkettle).

St George, Wyverstone, is off the B1113 Stowmarket to Rickinghall road, just to the west of Bacton. I've aways found it open.

Please note that the photographs are by Alan Thurkettle, and retain his copyright.